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For Americans of a certain age these four words are inextricably linked. The Iran hostage crisis forever burned Iran and Khomeini into our minds as emblems of danger and evil. Nearly 30 years have passed since then, but stories of nukes, kooky mullahs, and oppressed women have done little to improve Iran’s image.

In December 2005 I walked into an Iranian embassy, saw a picture of Khomeini frowning down, and all of those early memories came flooding back. As the trip approached my foreboding increased – by the day of the flight I was much more worked up about Iran than I had ever been with North Korea or Iraq.

It didn’t help that I’d decided to fly Iran Air. At first it seemed like an interesting airline to try, plus it offered a convenient connection from where I was staying in Seoul. The problem was ... (more)

Book Excerpt Index
1. Arrival in Tehran (Day 1 of the trip)
2. First Day in Tehran (Day 2 of the trip)
3. Road South along the Iraqi Border (Day 5 of the trip) 4. Central Iran - Arrival in Esfahan (Day 12 of the trip)
5. Home of the Mullahs - Qom (Day 16 of the trip)
6. Hell Train (leaving Iran)
Travel Route - click here for a map of the route I traveled through Iran
Introduction - click here to read the book's short introduction
Pictures (for video clips please head to the videos page)
On the road ...
Road to Kermanshah
Road to Kermanshah
Young fruitseller along the road to Kermanshah
Young fruit seller along the road to Kermanshah
Shepherd on the road to Ahvaz
Shepherd on the road to Ahvaz
Old Chevy truck on the road to Kerman
Old Chevy truck hauling along
on the road to Kerman
Caravanserei on the road to Yazd
Caravanserei on the road to Yazd
Interior of caravanserei on the road to Yazd
Interior of caravanserei,
road to Yazd
For more photos please head to the IRAN photos page.

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